November 13: Puerto Eden and the Pio Once Glacier

Breakfast is announced at 8 am over the intercom. This also serves as a wakeup call. This morning we sail through a narrow channel - navigation along this stretch is recommended only during daytime - and anchor at the only intermediate stop on the traverse: Puerto Eden.

An ancient village, populated around 6 thousand years ago, Puerto Eden provides a fascinating one-hour walk on planked pathways around the village periphery and through rolling hills and coastal environment. (Wear rain pants; the region is moist and rain frequent.)

In late afternoon, Navimag, usually traveling at 13 knots, slows and gently turns. In light rain and a chilling wind blowing from straight ahead, a crowd gathers at the bow. On first view, the glacier seems enormous. And yet, it is just a tip of a massive packed snow lake on the move. Cameras click everywhere, some held high with outstretched arms. The glacier is blue, grey, craggy, and old. Nature shows its presence. "I move, cover, and clear away even mountains." Beware.

The ship completes its slow turn and stops perpendicular to the Pope Pius XI Glacier wall.  Three crewmembers, suited against the elements, are lowered into icy water in a motorized dinghy. My son asks a crew member, "Where are they going?," who responds, "To get the paper." On return from the glacier's edge, it becomes clear the goal was ice. Several chunks supplement the ship's supply.

Dr. John