November 14 & 15: Puerto Natales

A quiet, catch-up morning on Navimag is filled with reading and writing. At 1:30 pm, the boat’s terminal port, Puerto Natales, comes into view. After a brief view of the sun, the weather has turned and through the intercom we are informed the wind is blowing at 40 knots and the authorities have denied permission to dock. We wait. Twenty minutes later it is sunny again and we disembark. 

A short cab ride takes us to the Alcazar Hostal. Simple, yet neat, the hostal has a small restaurant next door. The afternoon is spent sending e-mail, taking the laundry to the lavanderia, and refurbishing supplies. We purchase canned sardines and tuna, olives, cherries, and 70% chocolate at a local market.

The next morning we walk to the town center, shop for fruit, and hang out at the hostel until we are picked up by the EcoCamp shuttle at 2 pm. Lunch is provided at the Aldea Restaurant (my son and I have salad, hake with vegetables, and bowl of fruit) where we meet a couple from Holland, a couple from Switzerland, and a lady from Tasmania - her husband had arrived at EcoCamp several days previously, but, due to an airline strike in Argentina, she had been delayed in Buenos Aires. 

On the way to the Torres del Paine (Towers of Blue) National Park, we stop at Milodon cave (Cueva del Milodon), popularized by Bruce Chatwin's In Patagonia. The large cave, named for the extinct giant sloth discovered there, was occupied by Paleo-Americans 12,000 years ago. From there we travel into the Park, and by late afternoon, reach EcoCamp. 

Dr. John

November 13: Puerto Eden and the Pio Once Glacier

Breakfast is announced at 8 am over the intercom. This also serves as a wakeup call. This morning we sail through a narrow channel - navigation along this stretch is recommended only during daytime - and anchor at the only intermediate stop on the traverse: Puerto Eden.

An ancient village, populated around 6 thousand years ago, Puerto Eden provides a fascinating one-hour walk on planked pathways around the village periphery and through rolling hills and coastal environment. (Wear rain pants; the region is moist and rain frequent.)

In late afternoon, Navimag, usually traveling at 13 knots, slows and gently turns. In light rain and a chilling wind blowing from straight ahead, a crowd gathers at the bow. On first view, the glacier seems enormous. And yet, it is just a tip of a massive packed snow lake on the move. Cameras click everywhere, some held high with outstretched arms. The glacier is blue, grey, craggy, and old. Nature shows its presence. "I move, cover, and clear away even mountains." Beware.

The ship completes its slow turn and stops perpendicular to the Pope Pius XI Glacier wall.  Three crewmembers, suited against the elements, are lowered into icy water in a motorized dinghy. My son asks a crew member, "Where are they going?," who responds, "To get the paper." On return from the glacier's edge, it becomes clear the goal was ice. Several chunks supplement the ship's supply.

Dr. John

November 12 - Channels, Fjords & the Pacific

By Dr. John

This is the 13th entry of our recent trip to Chile. A list of all the previous trip posts is below.

Breakfast the next day was a greater challenge: yogurt, porridge, and coffee or juice. I regret eating the porridge - the first time I have eaten rice in over a year - and sense some sluggishness minutes later. (Be prepared, you can't bring everything you eat, but it's good to have some back-up.) Fortunately, two pears finish the breakfast just fine.

The Navimag boat takes us along a channel heading south from Puerto Montt as it makes its way to Puerto Natales. After traveling along multiple islands and fjords, at 4 pm we enter Bahia Anna Pink, a bay opening into the Pacific, and sail a 12-hour segment along the Pacific coast and through the Golfo de Penas (Gulf of Punishment).

During one of his charlas (briefings) the ship's guide shares his thoughts about the ocean pass: "If the weather is good, the boat will move. If the weather is bad, the boat will move." The implication is clear. We enter the Pacific in mild to moderate weather: overcast misty sky and a grey rolling swells covered with wind blown chop. There are fewer people in the dinning room that evening.

Previous trip entries in chronological order:

• Travel - Chile / Patagonia, November 2011
• November 10: Arrival in Santiago, Chile
• Book fair in converted rail station, Santiago
• Terminal del Sur, Santiago
• John Michael at Terminal del Sur, Santiago
• Churrasco al Plato con Huevos
• Internet caffe, bus terminal Puerto Montt
• Boarding a Navimag Ferry
• November 11: On Navimag
• View along the port
• View of Puerto Montt & 32 person lifeboat
• John Michael: Voyage by Sea 

November 11: On Navimag

By Dr. John

Breakfast at the bus station in Puerto Montt is a hit: Churrasco al Plato con Huevos. After a brief stop at the "internet caffe", we take a cab to the Navimag Ferries boat terminal. We realize we could have walked there by taking a left out of the terminal and walking along a curving road about the length of a block.

Navimag, I suspect, was created from the words "navigation" and "Magellan". We arrive early and and take seats in the waiting area as 196 people from around the world slowly gather in the station. The commonly heard languages include Spanish, German, English, and Swedish. At noon, we board Navimag.

A cargo and passenger ferry, Navimag is a common route from Puerto Montt to southern Patagonia. In addition to cargo, mostly vehicles, our boat carries 196 passengers and 46 crew. While many, like ourselves, are heading to Torres del Paine, others are off to other destinations such as Tierra del Fuego, the land of fire named during Magellan's voyage through the strait that bears his name.

Following a snack provided just after boarding, we walk on deck, take pictures, or settle in the pub. Dinner, served in two shifts includes salmon, bread roll, rice, small peaches, and mandarin. I pass on the bread and rice and fortunately my request for two salmon servings is granted. You can also get extra fruit. (Bring some packaged paleo goodies, declare them, they get in without problem.)

Boarding a Navimag Ferry