November 15: Hiking the French Valley, Torres del Paine National Park

The first hikers in Chile came by boat. Nomadic clans from Siberia crossed Beringia - the landmass that connected Asia to Alaska - 15 to 18 thousand years ago. They likely travelled south along the west coast of North and South America using small boats and living on seafood, waterfowl, and caribou. These Paleo-Americans reached southern Chile 14,600 thousand years ago and steadily moved inland, some inhabiting the Milodon Cave (Cueva del Milodon) in Patagonia 12,000 years ago. 

Today, almost 15,000 years following the arrival of the first Paleo Americans, the same rhythm seems to be at work. A boat takes you to another point on the land and exploration continues by walking, hiking, or trekking. Both means of travel provide a deep sense of connection to the natural wonder of southern Chile. The modern world, however, still shows it presence: Torres del Paine National Park is so large, reaching the trailheads usually requires a hydrocarbon burning boat or road vehicle.

Following dinner in the EcoCamp dinning dome, our expert guides reviewed the two hiking options for the coming day. All nine members of our group selected the French Valley hike. My son and I packed a Paleo lunch in a Tupperware-style container and small backpacks containing a camera, outerwear, snacks, and one bottle of water - our guides advised us the natural spring water was drinkable. Obviously, talk to your guide and make your own decision. 

View of Los Cuernos (The Horns) from the boat. 

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November 15-20: EcoCamp

The 1960’s meet the 21^st century. Take geodesic domes from the 60’s, a healthy dose of camaraderie, leave out the tie-dye and other accoutrements of that earlier decade and you have our first evening at EcoCamp. As the days unfolded, I developed a great respect and appreciation of this wonderful place. I hope the images do it justice. 

Heading toward EcoCamp in Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia, Chile. A guanaco stands on a grassy knoll with Torres (Towers) in the distance. 

EcoCamp is composed of a series of domes. Guests stay at the standard domes (above) or in one the larger suite domes (after the blog jump). A group of core domes includes a dinning dome, a lounge, a café, kitchen and domes for the staff. 

John Michael heading out of the core domes. Visible are the dinning dome (left) and the lounge dome (right).

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November 14 & 15: Puerto Natales

A quiet, catch-up morning on Navimag is filled with reading and writing. At 1:30 pm, the boat’s terminal port, Puerto Natales, comes into view. After a brief view of the sun, the weather has turned and through the intercom we are informed the wind is blowing at 40 knots and the authorities have denied permission to dock. We wait. Twenty minutes later it is sunny again and we disembark. 

A short cab ride takes us to the Alcazar Hostal. Simple, yet neat, the hostal has a small restaurant next door. The afternoon is spent sending e-mail, taking the laundry to the lavanderia, and refurbishing supplies. We purchase canned sardines and tuna, olives, cherries, and 70% chocolate at a local market.

The next morning we walk to the town center, shop for fruit, and hang out at the hostel until we are picked up by the EcoCamp shuttle at 2 pm. Lunch is provided at the Aldea Restaurant (my son and I have salad, hake with vegetables, and bowl of fruit) where we meet a couple from Holland, a couple from Switzerland, and a lady from Tasmania - her husband had arrived at EcoCamp several days previously, but, due to an airline strike in Argentina, she had been delayed in Buenos Aires. 

On the way to the Torres del Paine (Towers of Blue) National Park, we stop at Milodon cave (Cueva del Milodon), popularized by Bruce Chatwin's In Patagonia. The large cave, named for the extinct giant sloth discovered there, was occupied by Paleo-Americans 12,000 years ago. From there we travel into the Park, and by late afternoon, reach EcoCamp. 

Dr. John