Hiking in Torres del Paine National Park

Technically an offshoot of walking, this is my personal favorite way to Move Frequently at a Slow Pace. There’s nothing wrong with walking around the block with my wife at sunset (in fact, there’s everything right with it), but there’s just something about being out in nature, mostly alone and free to do as I please. And really, is there anything more Primal than messing around in the open wilderness? The terrain shifts, there are rocks to lift and toss, tree limbs to climb, and hills to scale. Because your foot lands differently on varied terrain, you train the small muscles in your feet more effectively. If walking around your placid suburban block gets old, strike out for the hills!  

Mark Sisson on hiking
Primal Blueprint Fitness 

Although we did not lift heavy rocks or climb trees, the hikes in Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia, Chile were beautiful and invigorating. Here are a few photos.

Rafa, one of our guides, and John Michael. 

John Michael and guide Nata. 

Previous trip entries in chronological order:

• Travel - Chile / Patagonia, November 2011
• November 10: Arrival in Santiago, Chile
• Book fair in converted rail station, Santiago
• Terminal del Sur, Santiago
• John Michael at Terminal del Sur, Santiago
• Churrasco al Plato con Huevos
• Internet caffe, bus terminal Puerto Montt
• Boarding a Navimag Ferry
• November 11: On Navimag
• View along the port
• View of Puerto Montt & 32 person lifeboat
• John Michael: Voyage by Sea 
• November 12 - Channels, Fjords & the Pacific
• November 13: Puerto Eden and the Pio Once Glacier
• November 14 & 15: Puerto Natales
• November 15-20: EcoCamp
• November 15: Hiking the French Valley, Torres del Paine National Park

November 15: Hiking the French Valley, Torres del Paine National Park

The first hikers in Chile came by boat. Nomadic clans from Siberia crossed Beringia - the landmass that connected Asia to Alaska - 15 to 18 thousand years ago. They likely travelled south along the west coast of North and South America using small boats and living on seafood, waterfowl, and caribou. These Paleo-Americans reached southern Chile 14,600 thousand years ago and steadily moved inland, some inhabiting the Milodon Cave (Cueva del Milodon) in Patagonia 12,000 years ago. 

Today, almost 15,000 years following the arrival of the first Paleo Americans, the same rhythm seems to be at work. A boat takes you to another point on the land and exploration continues by walking, hiking, or trekking. Both means of travel provide a deep sense of connection to the natural wonder of southern Chile. The modern world, however, still shows it presence: Torres del Paine National Park is so large, reaching the trailheads usually requires a hydrocarbon burning boat or road vehicle.

Following dinner in the EcoCamp dinning dome, our expert guides reviewed the two hiking options for the coming day. All nine members of our group selected the French Valley hike. My son and I packed a Paleo lunch in a Tupperware-style container and small backpacks containing a camera, outerwear, snacks, and one bottle of water - our guides advised us the natural spring water was drinkable. Obviously, talk to your guide and make your own decision. 

View of Los Cuernos (The Horns) from the boat. 

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November 15-20: EcoCamp

The 1960’s meet the 21^st century. Take geodesic domes from the 60’s, a healthy dose of camaraderie, leave out the tie-dye and other accoutrements of that earlier decade and you have our first evening at EcoCamp. As the days unfolded, I developed a great respect and appreciation of this wonderful place. I hope the images do it justice. 

Heading toward EcoCamp in Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia, Chile. A guanaco stands on a grassy knoll with Torres (Towers) in the distance. 

EcoCamp is composed of a series of domes. Guests stay at the standard domes (above) or in one the larger suite domes (after the blog jump). A group of core domes includes a dinning dome, a lounge, a café, kitchen and domes for the staff. 

John Michael heading out of the core domes. Visible are the dinning dome (left) and the lounge dome (right).

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Travel - Chile / Patagonia, November 2011

By Dr. John

Boarding American Airlines flight 1028 from Denver on November 9 marks the beginning of a two week adventure, currently underway, to Chile, with the ultimate destination of Parque Nacional Torres del Paine in Patagonia.

Making a tight connection in Dallas-Ft. Worth on the 8:30 pm American Airlines flight 945 on a 767 Boeing, 9 hours 23 min later I land in Santiago, Chile. The first Paleo-Americans took several thousand years to travel from the Beringia, the landmass then connecting Asia to Alaska, to Monte Verde in southern Chile. Now, 14,600 thousand years later, the trip from Denver to Santiago takes half a day.

Those first Paleo-Americans, the ones traveling the western coastal route, likely paddled small hide covered boats and "fueled up on seafood, from shellfish to migrating pink salmon." Heather Pringle, writing in Scientific American, continues: "They may also have hunted waterfowl migrating along the Pacific flyway, as well as caribou and other hardy land animals grazing in the larger refugia." I am curious to see what my diet will be.